Saturday, January 30, 2016

Bank - Glow in the Dark


Bank - Glow in the Dark bank, garden bench, epoxy resin, strontium, luminescent pigments, in fluorescent, glow in the dark


Actually, I was going to make two wallboards for my not perennials, as called me my sister and crystallized out somehow that she would like to have a new garden bench and since Christmas is was from which these bank.

And actually would ich's then tackled differently (trim, reinmachen cracks, sanding, dowel drill / pure glue on one side, color od scarfing -. I'd still like to made -, epoxy / luminescent pigments pure, dry / grinding, epoxy over it) but it was just not the case.
Bench, garden bench, epoxy resin, strontium, luminescent pigments, in fluorescent, glow in the dark

INSTRUCTIONS
Required material
Pcs. Description Material Dimensions
1 wooden plate 120x30x3
1 wooden plate 120x40x3
1 wooden plate 120x50x3
Epoxy
Luminescent pigments
Tools Needed
Jigsaw
Orbital Sander
Belt sander
Jigsaw
Orbital Sander
Hot air blower
Belt sander
Cordless Drill
Cordless Drill
Jigsaw
Hot air blower
Belt sander
Orbital Sander

First day


Cracks kick it grinding resin / fluorescent pigments pure
So I got out the cracks in the boards (fir glulam 120x40x3 or 120x30x3 cm) made, epoxy filled with luminescent pigments in the cracks (how to do this can and should read one of my previous projects, there is everything important for resin), only one still if the resin is stored in a cold environment to warm in the water bath and allow to cool to 18-20 Grad, it's too cold, it could crystallize.

The resin had to harden and then at some point the day I have with my sister on the phone.

Second day




Cut and sanded

 cut and sanded dowel holes drilled to fit sample sit, is stable, does not need a bar
I had a third panel here 120x50x3 cm, ideal for the stayers and the Bank should / be even dismantled transportable. So I got the next Stayers recorded (the seat is 40cm high, the holder for the rest is 75cm high) and cut out with a jigsaw.
Now I had 4 rectangular parts, I did not like. So considering a shape center marked with seat and backrest, marked the rest freehand and then cut out with a jigsaw. In my opinion, does not have to look like from the CNC.

Then only the uprights were fixed in parallel with clamps, first cut simultaneously with the belt sander and then again reworked the cutouts of the seat and the backrest so.
Now the edges have been rounded everything a few times sanded with the orbital sander and 240 grit. Then the dowel holes have been drilled, checked if they fit and glued into the seat and backrest. Assembled and even checked if I have to move a beam, but that does not needs of use, is stable.

Third day

made a photo of the underside
Made 1 / 1 uje a photo from the bottom
Brushing garage was now his turn, because then epoxy was mixed again.
At first everything cleaned parts correctly (eg compressed air), then adapted PE film and everything first with Epoxy are brushed that the wood can soak times. A little later all parts were jacked horizontally. Distributes epoxy in 100g increments thereon and with a breitzahnigen ridge (similar to a floor adhesive putty) evenly distributed. The bubbles were a Bunzenbrenner rausgeholt (heat gun goes / hair dryer but not). What should flowed away side go his way. The drops then I've a couple and about every hour. Removed with a brush. Now you have the dry again until.

Fourth day



Dry it, but never let it dry in the sun, becomes milky

 and dry it is, but never let it dry in the sun, is milky super glossy and I super happy
A week later, I then made the front, first again sanded smooth the edge and where already Epoxit with acetone cleaner over it. In principle, then the same only I have the edge of the bottom sealed with packing tape and then cut the contour with a utility knife and then drop formation often controlled by a few hours. Is the past. The brush can then all wegschmeisen.
The parts of the bank are later glued together with epoxy.
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Wooden bank project


INSTRUCTIONS
Required material
Pcs. Description Material Dimensions
4 wooden beams 2000 mm
1 bottle of walnut wood stain
1 can of cream white paint
1 Leatherette 1.0 * 1.4
1 multiplex board
1 threaded rod
Tools Needed
Cordless Screwdrivers
Cordless Circular Saw
Table Saw
Random Orbit Sander
Miter saw
Stapler

Plan


Cut wooden beams


4 wooden beams (5,8cm * 7,8cm) with 200cm total length
cut in 45 ° miter at 45 cm.
Thus, a seat height of 45 cm results on the beam
plus seat pads

Connect wooden beams with 45 ° pieces

 
For the 45 ° beamed pieces with the remaining
Connecting bar I used here
first Lamellos and glued everything


Grinding bar


Here were the bars with the PEX 270
ground outdoors

Undercover Jig

As additional support for the bars
I'm still with the Undercover Jig
bolted parts

Pickling bar

   
The bars I then with Mordant
Dark walnut painted and allow to dry

Making cube

As a 2nd pillar of the Bank, I have a
Cube made while I cut from a larger
Plate with the PKS 18 LI, the parts made,
I cut later with the PTS 10
The height of the cube is 37,2cm
The width and depth of 32,2cm


Lamello insert 

For the cube I wanted no visible. Make connections, ie see screws.
Therefore, I decided to provide you with everything Lamellos

Glue cube


Here all the parts have been glued together and then ground.

Paint cube

Here the cube in cream white was lacquered

Screw cube with beams

Here I have the cube with the bar screwed bottom

Fix distance blocks

First 3 pieces with the cut-off saw cut then painted and secured.
After the glue I used the auger a hole drilled through all parts and a threaded rod
appropriate.

Customize leatherette upholstery

First, I have on the back of the leather
the pattern shown.
Then cut, tacked the corners before sewing
sewn and stapled with the PTk the reference to the seat cushion

Completely project

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Wood Baby Cot Bed

Since I could get myself a silent reader of the forum already many new ideas here, I want to give something back and share the DIY a baby cot with adjustable slatted frame with you. Although our dwarf comes only in July to the world, but I just could not wait to begin construction. But see for yourself and have fun imitating)

INSTRUCTIONS
Required material
Pcs. Description Material Dimensions
Tools Needed
Cordless Drill
Table Saw
Bench drill
Router
Slicer
Random Orbit Sander
standard workshop equipment


The only two demands which made my wife are that the crib, quote: "has beautiful after wood" and that the lying surface should be 60x120 cm. We can arrange that;)
I then opted for pollutant-free, untreated Buchenleimholz plates. For the lateral surfaces in 20mm and the crossmember in 28mm thickness. Since I had an (approximate) plan in mind, I leave me for the sake of convenience in the construction market cut to the appropriate size, the plates. The bars are made from 16mm thick beech wood rods.
The material cost is up to about 100 € (if one has essential things like dowels, glue etc. there).

The side parts

 Insert the dowel first "plug test" ... fits;) drilling the holes for the transverse structural member 1 drilling the holes for the transverse beams Part 2 Oops, a sidewall is wrong rum ...
<<
I have decided to build a kind of frame in which I was getting a 10 mm thick plywood board, so as to have a nice contrast to beech wood.
First, all parts of the exterior walls are chamfered with the spindle moulder. Then I have the inner grooves for the side plate milled (10mm wide and 10mm deep). Looked at first glance everything from ever good;)
Now that many holes were set for the 8 anchors (3 per joint).
First assembly attempt ... fits ... BUT ... sitting pretty tight and can only be solved with some effort ... a good thing.
Now even drilled the dowel holes and the holes for the subsequent fitting of the crossbeam and lowered and the first two parts already finished.

The crossmember


 Dowels and bores in the end faces of the cross-member screw-threaded to later put the holes on the bars all round nice Fertsch)
First again put the dowel holes. For the fitting of the bed I've decided to screw-with einme M5 female thread. This gives good stability and can be used countersunk head screws, which leads to an acceptable appearance.
For the set of pods the guide hole is set with an 8-drill first. Subsequently, I have created a 15er Forstner a 2mm deep valley, so that the edges of the sleeves do not interfere with assembly. Now you can with a 16 drill (Forstner go, you rarely get with this measure but) the holes for the bars to be drilled. The distance was chosen so that between the bars later 6cm distance (ie 15 rods per grid). Finally, the edges of the cross member with the spindle moulder were rounded off nicely, so also no one hurts;)



>>
Now for the first time voltage ...
Drum roll ...
Welding ...
Plugging together ...
Fits ...
First a beer X)

The slatted

   The frame, with screw-fitting 60x120cm and M5 adjustment screws setting the dowel holes for the battens first test
>>
For the frame I used 30mm square-beech wood. Four screws on the front surfaces help to create stability. The slats are made of 20 Beech glued laminated timber. The procedure is the same as previously: drill dowel holes, holes for the cross-bolting (for increasing the stiffness) sat, all nice the mainstays of the spindle moulder, cobble together, watch whether fit ... does, prima ... on it goes;)
The height adjustment


Preparation of the side panels, the height adjustment
I opted for three different heights of the slatted base:
Position 1: slatted bottom, which for safety reasons the distance between the upper edge slats and top should be at least 60cm railing (with me sinds 61,5cm, YES)
Position 2: Is designed so that the mattress of Babybettchens flush with the mattress of our bed so that the bed can also be converted to extra bed (a grid can be removed relatively quickly)
Position 3: slatted top, at a minimum distance between the upper edge slats and top railing of 30cm



 Let's see if the slatted past ... ... he does ... so good
Once again, everything put together, to make sure that everything matches and I have forgotten nothing decisive. Everything seems to be there. Let's go to my absolute "favorite work" ...

grind ... oils ... loops ... oils ... or: if you have nothing else to do

 All parts finished grinding device for the bars grinding device for the bars So also goes; oiled made lightly sanded and again) drying
>>
I found this step a little underestimated ...; (
Since the crib now consists of 64 (!!!) share, cost me the loops more time than I liked. Four grinding passes were in front of me ... 120, 180, 240 and 320 grit. Although it may seem exaggerated, but the effort is worth it, because the result is a babypopoglatte, silky satin wood surface)
After all the grinding, it applies only once to get rid of all sanding dust, which again cost me half a day.
After that I treated the parts with Hard Wax Oil for children's toys. After two days of drying was sanded with 600 grit. This was followed by a second application of oil and because the wood barely
Oil recorded, I could save myself a third passageway ... YEAH
The final countdown .




Now just assembled everything, glued, screwed and ready is the crib)
The demands of my wife of lying area 60x120cm and "it must look beautiful for wood" have been complied with, all in all a successful project;)


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Folding chair for plugging





From pine strips 21 x 33 mm (s still nobler oak) create the four legs: 2 pieces in 520 mm length of the front, 2 pieces in 700 mm for the rear. In addition, a bit thinner strips 15 x 33 mm cut a total of 15 pieces in transverse length of 400 mm for the seat surface and the backrest. If all parts are then laid ever ordered, can be seen at a glance whether all lengths agree.


PREV off the edges with sandpaper reaming of holes to sink the screw heads well
Round off the ends of the legs with a jigsaw and rework with sandpaper.
The crosspieces 9 for the rest provided 10 mm before the end with a 4 mm bore hole. The other 6 crosspieces for each seat 32 mm from the end of a borehole.
Treat the holes with a reamer so that the screw heads can be well sunk later. Then all the edges with sandpaper break (round). Although the grinding cost some time, but prevent later someone splinters tearing. The whole furniture summarizes thereby also pleasant.

1 / 3Wichtig: Pay attention to the squareness!
PREV Important: Pay attention to the squareness! Attaching the cross pieces The finished backrest
The two longer legs 70mm from the bottom of scribing and there assemble the first of the crosspieces with screw and glue. Puts on the other side the second crosspiece attach 155 mm from the lower edge. On the same side, finally assemble the third crosspiece on the upper end. Pay attention to the squareness. Turn the workpiece again and start on the first page edited rungs of the backrest from 100 mm from the top with 15 mm spacing and fix again with glue and screw. For equally spaced and parallel bars, I could just put one of the crosspieces upright as a lesson, because the bars were 15 mm thick indeed.
The finished backrest from the side. The backrest and a single crosspiece sitting on the side in the picture above, two further cross members opposite.


The seat works much like the back and was about even easier by hand. A special feature here, however, were below the chamfered legs, which are needed for a stable stand. I have used it a bevel, so an adjustable angle on einVerhältnis of 3: 6 has been set. Then just touch on slope and cut with a jigsaw. Flush banding The first crosspiece of the seat with the front edge and the next 270 mm from the edge and screw. Caution: This time, pay attention to an overhang of 22 mm on each side! It results from the used strip thickness of 21 mm plus 1 mm for the free play of both chair parts. The still remaining crosspieces evenly mounted on the seat. When supernatant everything done right with the 22 mm, the seat can now clean and without jamming slide it into the part of the backrest.


Optional: wood preservative for the garden
The sitting posture in the chair is similar to a deck chair, and you can also fine him for use in the garden. A textile foam pad is however recommended for longer "sessions". At a wood preservative, we have deliberately omitted, however, which is why we have to be careful now that the chair does not remain outside in the rain. That would be when purchased may be different, but real wood furniture in the garden market also have a completely different price than our jewel. Who decides for a replica with wood preservatives, should emphasize the woods after cutting but before installation at least 2 times with wood preservatives and each plan at least one day waiting period to drying.
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