Saturday, January 30, 2016

Wood Baby Cot Bed

Share it Please
Since I could get myself a silent reader of the forum already many new ideas here, I want to give something back and share the DIY a baby cot with adjustable slatted frame with you. Although our dwarf comes only in July to the world, but I just could not wait to begin construction. But see for yourself and have fun imitating)

INSTRUCTIONS
Required material
Pcs. Description Material Dimensions
Tools Needed
Cordless Drill
Table Saw
Bench drill
Router
Slicer
Random Orbit Sander
standard workshop equipment


The only two demands which made my wife are that the crib, quote: "has beautiful after wood" and that the lying surface should be 60x120 cm. We can arrange that;)
I then opted for pollutant-free, untreated Buchenleimholz plates. For the lateral surfaces in 20mm and the crossmember in 28mm thickness. Since I had an (approximate) plan in mind, I leave me for the sake of convenience in the construction market cut to the appropriate size, the plates. The bars are made from 16mm thick beech wood rods.
The material cost is up to about 100 € (if one has essential things like dowels, glue etc. there).

The side parts

 Insert the dowel first "plug test" ... fits;) drilling the holes for the transverse structural member 1 drilling the holes for the transverse beams Part 2 Oops, a sidewall is wrong rum ...
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I have decided to build a kind of frame in which I was getting a 10 mm thick plywood board, so as to have a nice contrast to beech wood.
First, all parts of the exterior walls are chamfered with the spindle moulder. Then I have the inner grooves for the side plate milled (10mm wide and 10mm deep). Looked at first glance everything from ever good;)
Now that many holes were set for the 8 anchors (3 per joint).
First assembly attempt ... fits ... BUT ... sitting pretty tight and can only be solved with some effort ... a good thing.
Now even drilled the dowel holes and the holes for the subsequent fitting of the crossbeam and lowered and the first two parts already finished.

The crossmember


 Dowels and bores in the end faces of the cross-member screw-threaded to later put the holes on the bars all round nice Fertsch)
First again put the dowel holes. For the fitting of the bed I've decided to screw-with einme M5 female thread. This gives good stability and can be used countersunk head screws, which leads to an acceptable appearance.
For the set of pods the guide hole is set with an 8-drill first. Subsequently, I have created a 15er Forstner a 2mm deep valley, so that the edges of the sleeves do not interfere with assembly. Now you can with a 16 drill (Forstner go, you rarely get with this measure but) the holes for the bars to be drilled. The distance was chosen so that between the bars later 6cm distance (ie 15 rods per grid). Finally, the edges of the cross member with the spindle moulder were rounded off nicely, so also no one hurts;)



>>
Now for the first time voltage ...
Drum roll ...
Welding ...
Plugging together ...
Fits ...
First a beer X)

The slatted

   The frame, with screw-fitting 60x120cm and M5 adjustment screws setting the dowel holes for the battens first test
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For the frame I used 30mm square-beech wood. Four screws on the front surfaces help to create stability. The slats are made of 20 Beech glued laminated timber. The procedure is the same as previously: drill dowel holes, holes for the cross-bolting (for increasing the stiffness) sat, all nice the mainstays of the spindle moulder, cobble together, watch whether fit ... does, prima ... on it goes;)
The height adjustment


Preparation of the side panels, the height adjustment
I opted for three different heights of the slatted base:
Position 1: slatted bottom, which for safety reasons the distance between the upper edge slats and top should be at least 60cm railing (with me sinds 61,5cm, YES)
Position 2: Is designed so that the mattress of Babybettchens flush with the mattress of our bed so that the bed can also be converted to extra bed (a grid can be removed relatively quickly)
Position 3: slatted top, at a minimum distance between the upper edge slats and top railing of 30cm



 Let's see if the slatted past ... ... he does ... so good
Once again, everything put together, to make sure that everything matches and I have forgotten nothing decisive. Everything seems to be there. Let's go to my absolute "favorite work" ...

grind ... oils ... loops ... oils ... or: if you have nothing else to do

 All parts finished grinding device for the bars grinding device for the bars So also goes; oiled made lightly sanded and again) drying
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I found this step a little underestimated ...; (
Since the crib now consists of 64 (!!!) share, cost me the loops more time than I liked. Four grinding passes were in front of me ... 120, 180, 240 and 320 grit. Although it may seem exaggerated, but the effort is worth it, because the result is a babypopoglatte, silky satin wood surface)
After all the grinding, it applies only once to get rid of all sanding dust, which again cost me half a day.
After that I treated the parts with Hard Wax Oil for children's toys. After two days of drying was sanded with 600 grit. This was followed by a second application of oil and because the wood barely
Oil recorded, I could save myself a third passageway ... YEAH
The final countdown .




Now just assembled everything, glued, screwed and ready is the crib)
The demands of my wife of lying area 60x120cm and "it must look beautiful for wood" have been complied with, all in all a successful project;)


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